Visit three towns, one inhabited only by ghosts. First, West Tisbury, a picture-perfect New England country village with a white steeple church and an operating general store. It is as neat and tidy as the fields around it.
Menemsha's haphazard fishing shanties, with more character than substance, cling to the rocky coast. They provided a quaint backdrop for the movie "Jaws," and dockage for President Clinton's historic sail with the Kennedys.
Christaintown, called Manitouwattootan, by the Native Algonquins is a "place of spirits." Set aside by Sachem Josias in 1659 as a praying town for converts to Christianity, it bears testament to the Natives of the Vineyard. Burial grounds at the site are marked with single stones reflecting both pagan and Christian beliefs and a tiny chapel dating from 1828 still stands.
Bring a picnic, or stop along the way for one to take with you. The scenery is second to none, but restaurants are virtually non-existent on this side of the island and no alcohol is sold.
Turn your odometer to "0" and drive straight out of the ferry to the stop sign. Turn left onto Water Street, driving to the next stop sign. Turn right onto South Main Street. Drive uphill past the turn-off onto Vineyard Haven/Edgartown Road.
Follow the signs to West Tisbury when the road Y's. Main Street becomes State Road. Stay left, passing Indian Hill Road.
5.5 miles: Stop at Goff's Art Gallery on the right for interesting wear-able art.
Continue on State Road to South Road. Turn left following the sign to Chilmark.
7.1 miles: Pass the intersection with Edgartown Road at the outskirts of West Tisbury. Stop in at Alley's General Store for provisions or pictures. Its clapboard exterior and step-back-in-time interior make it worth the stop. Enjoy the sculptures in the garden of the art gallery and the fine old frame houses of West Tisbury before heading out of town on South Road.
Be careful driving, the road is narrow and winding. Spectacular views of moors, dunes and ocean will distract you.
12.4 miles: South Road makes a sharp right and ends at Beetlebung Corner. Beetlebung is what the "Old Islanders" call the tupelo trees that dominate the intersection of Menemsha Cross Road, Middle Road and South Road because its wood was used to make small mallets called beetles and wooden stoppers for kegs called bungs.
Continue straight ahead on Menemsha Cross Road to North Road. (Turn left to visit Alquinnah's famous red clay cliffs.)
13.4 miles: Turn left and follow North Road down the hill into Menemsha. Turn right at the first intersection to Dutcher's Dock past a lovely harpoonist statue to a tiny public beach. This is a good spot to picnic and watch small boats navigate the harbor.
14.6 miles: Return to North Road and turn right to the end of the road. Survey the fish markets, walk the short dock or pick up a snack at the Home Port (only open during July and August).
When you are ready, head out the way you came uphill past Menemsha Cross Road. Stop at the crest of the hill for photographs. Bliss Pond sparkles on your right.
Continue on North Road. It becomes more winding with cool wooded areas and tranquil views. 20.2 miles: Reach the "Y" of Vineyard Haven Road and South Road continue straight ahead on Vineyard Haven Road.
21 miles: Turn left onto South Indian Hill Road. Continue straight across the intersection with Indian Hill Road onto the dirt Christaintown Road.
22.4 miles: A large stone memorial marks the bottom of Indian Hill. The chapel is on the left. An easy half-mile trail winds through The Christaintown Woods Preserve. Two stone chambers are visible from the trail. Legends describe these chambers as ancient "vision quest centers." Tribal leaders would fast here to receive visions. Others believe the chambers to be root cellars.
Drive back out Christaintown Road. Turn left on Indian Hill Road and then left again onto State Road. Old County Road comes in from the right, bear left following the signs for Vineyard Haven.
24.2 miles: On the right side of the road is a small sign for "The Winery at Chicama Vineyards." Drive down the lane to visit the vineyard or Thimble Farm where you can pick-your-own strawberries or raspberries in season.
Return to State Road and drive past Lambert Cove Road.
25.7 miles: Just past Lambert Cove Road on the left is an overlook. Stop for a wonderful view of Lake Tashmoo and the Elizabeth Islands beyond green rolling hills.
Continue on State Road back to Vineyard Haven.
27.6 miles: Reach the ferry.